Before you take your bike down to the local inspection station, you
can save yourself some grief even if you're not much into doing your own
"wrenching". A Phillips screwdriver and a couple of minutes is about all
it takes to replace a turn signal bulb or a brake light. Changing a tire
is best left to someone with the skill and equipment to do the job, but
you can take a look yourself to see if it's needed. Below are some general
guidelines passing the Virginia motorcycle safety inspection.
BRAKES
If your motorcycle was originally equipped with both front and rear brakes,
then both must be functional. If it was manufactured after July 1, 1974,
then it must have either a split service brake system, or two independently
actuated service brake systems that act on the front as well as the rear
wheel or wheels.
The brake linings cannot be worn to less than 2/32 of an inch in thickness
and they cannot be broken or cracked to the point that they are no longer
firmly attached to the shoe or disc pad. If the pads are riveted on, then
the rivets cannot be loose or missing. Whether your brakes are the brake
drum type or the disc (rotor) type, the drum or disc cannot be so scored
that would impairs braking. They also cannot be worn beyond the manufacturer's
recommended limit. Bent rods, missing cotter keys or lock nuts, frayed
or broken cables, or any misaligned parts can cause you problems also.
The master cylinder, wheel cylinders, and brake hoses or lines must
not leak. Hydraulic lines or hoses cannot be crimped, abraded, broken
or restricted and they must be installed so as to prevent damage or abrasion
by contact with the frame or other components. Make sure your fluid level
in master cylinder is not below full mark unless the level recommended
by manufacturer is clearly marked.
SEAT, STEERING AND SUSPENSION
Your frame cannot be so bent or damaged that it's a hazard to proper operation
and your wheels must not be so out of line that steering and control is
affected. The steering-head bearings must not be loose, broken, defective
or out of adjustment. Your handlebars must not be loose, bent, broken or
damaged such that it affects proper steering, and the handlebar grips cannot
extend to a height in excess of 15 inches above the saddle level.
Shock absorbers must not be broken, worn, missing, defective, or disconnected,
and they must function properly. The suspension system springs cannot
be broken or sagging. The seat (or seats) must be securely fastened and
you have to have footrests for each passenger.
TIRES, WHEELS, AND RIMS
Your tires cannot have any cuts or wear to the point that the fabric is
visible and you must have at least 2/32 of tread depth. They cannot have
knots or bulges in the sidewalls or any evidence of a broken belt under
the tread or of the tread separating from the fabric. Also, they cannot
have been recut or regrooved.
Check bolts, nuts, lugs or spokes to make sure they are not bent, loose
or missing. Your rims, or wheels cannot be so bent, cracked or damaged
that it affects the safe operation of your motorcycle. Wheel bearings
cannot be excessively worn or out of adjustment.
MUFFLER AND EXHAUST SYSTEM
You have to have an exhaust line or tailpipe if your bike is designed to
have one, and it must be properly secured. Your muffler cannot have a cutout
or a bypass and it cannot have been patched up. You can't have any leaks
at your manifold gaskets, muffler and muffler connections, or at any point
in the exhaust line, nor can your tailpipe opening cannot be pinched or
mashed.
LIGHTS
You have to have a functioning headlight (either one, or two, but not more),
and it must shine straight ahead. You can also have two "auxiliary headlamps".
The headlight lens and reflector must match and the lens cannot be cracked,
broken or rotated. Both the lens and the lens reflector must be clean. Modulating
headlights that switch between high and low beam at a rate of 200 to 280
flashes per minute are OK, provided they are equipped with something that
prevents flashing of the headlight when headlights are required to be lighted.
The high beam indicator has to turn on when you have your high beam on and
off when the low beam is on.
You have to have a tail light mounted near the rear of your bike and
it must turn on when your headlight is on. You also have to have a working
rear license plate light. Turn signals are not required, but if you have
them they have to work. They should be at least 9 inches apart and 20
inches above ground level. You must have a brake light and it must turn
on whether you press the foot brake or use the hand brake. There, however,
are a couple of exceptions to this brake light rule. The first is that
you don't have to have a brake light if you have an antique motorcycle
that was not originally equipped with a brake light. The second exception
is that if your motorcycle was manufactured prior to January 1, 1972,
the front wheel brake control does not have to activate the brake light.
With the exception of the headlight, lenses on the rest of your bike
cannot have pieces broken from them, but they can have one or more cracks
provided an off-color light does not project through the crack or cracks.
Also, you cannot have wire, lens or plastic covers, any other materials
which are not original equipment on any of your lights, nor can you have
any colored material placed on or in front of them.
OTHER
Electrical switches must work, be conveniently located and your electrical
connections cannot be defective. Your horn must work and be heard 200 feet
away. Warning lamps must work and cannot have been altered. You must have
a rear view mirror and it cannot be cracked, broken, peeled, tarnished,
have sharp edges, or reflect more than one image. It must also be mounted
securely and provide a view of the road 200 feet to the rear.
Neither your windscreen nor it's supports or installation components
can obstruct your vision. Your gas tank, carburetor, breather, and any
other parts of your fuel system must be secure and not leak fuel. Make
sure your gas cap fits securely.